Planespotting – The right way to take photos of planes

The fascination of capturing the giants of the skies in impressive shots is called planespotting. Similar to sports photography, the challenge of planespotting lies in taking pictures of the rapid aircraft in motion. To achieve this, however, a few things must be done.

We’ll tell you what you should keep in mind when photographing airplanes, what weather and camera settings are recommended, and which apps will help you find airplanes in your area.

Recommended camera equipment for aircraft photography

You should use a system camera (DSLRs or DSLM) and a long focal length lens for planespotting. In some cases, bridge cameras may also be useful. However, they must have a particularly good zoom capability. Cameras with an APS-C sensor are well suited for this kind of photography due to the smaller image detail. In direct comparison to cameras with a full format sensor, the APS-C sensor displays the aircraft larger.

You won’t be able to avoid the use of telephoto lenses when planespotting. The airplanes are usually far away and there is only a limited possibility to approach them. Lenses with a focal length range of 55 – 250 mm already offer a good start. It is also beneficial if your lens has a built-in image stabiliser. In photography at higher focal lengths, blurring occurs even with slight shaking.

Planespotterin fotografiert startendes Flugzeug

Preparation – Scouting airports

Airports offer different possibilities for planespotting. Some have their own areas for aircraft enthusiasts and plane-spotters, while others may have a hill next to the airport site from which you have a particularly good view of your subject. If you are planning to take your photo at a certain airport, it is worthwhile to inform yourself about the local conditions in good time. You can contact the airport itself or look at the relevant planespotter forums where photographers exchange tips and information. Some airports even offer special planespotter tours of the airport grounds, where photographers are taken to particularly good spots.

Special care is required with planespotting outside of Europe. In some countries, planespotting at the airport is a criminal offence. Therefore, you should find out in advance whether planespotting is permitted at all at the location of your choice.

The best wheather conditions for planespotting

Varying wheather brings fresh wind into your photos. Clear blue skies with bight sunshine or clouds and rain – Impressive shots of planes can be achieved in nearly any wheather at all. Exceptions are thick layers of fog that block the view to the airplane.

Use the weather to your advantage and include it in your shots. When it rains, reflections may appear on the airplane or the runway, which can be beautifully incorporated into the image. Spray dripping off the airplane gives your pictures even more authenticity. Nevertheless, you should protect your camera from external weather influences. Despite splash water protection, the camera may otherwise be damaged during longer periods of rain.

Avoid photographing airplanes in strong midday sun. This will make the aircraft more evenly illuminated and prevent hard shadows from forming on the aircraft. In any case, make sure that you do not photograph against the sunlight.

Aircraft approaching for landing

In this picture, the aircraft appears to be at a standstill, as even the rotors are almost completely sharp. Such a result can only be achieved with a very short exposure time. The cloudy background adds depth to the image.

Camera settings for photographing airplanes

Beginners and professionals alike appreciate the comfort of the automatic aperture and aperture control. With automatic aperture control (S or TV mode), you select a value for the exposure time. The appropriate aperture is then automatically selected by the camera depending on the ISO value used. In Aperture Priority, it is the same. You select an aperture value and the exposure time is determined automatically.

You should use your camera’s special focus for moving subjects. For Canon cameras this is called “AI Servo”, whereas Nikon uses the name “AF-C”. The focus designation may vary depending on the manufacturer.

When choosing the exposure time, always remember that airplanes still travel at speeds between 200 and 300 km/h at take-off and landing. Planespotting basically offers you two ways to display the aircraft.

Would you like to display the aircraft and its surroundings as sharply as possible and prevent blurring effects at all costs? Then you should choose a short exposure time, about the value of 1/1000 sec. Depending on the speed of the airplane, the short exposure time causes your subject and its surroundings to freeze. The choice of a very short exposure time is not always possible due to external weather conditions. If there is not enough light, you have to cut back on the ISO or aperture value to maintain the short exposure time. In addition, your images will quickly lose their dynamic range.

Alternatively, you can capture the movement of the aircraft in the recording. The plane will be sharp, but the foreground and background will be blurred. As a guide, select exposure times around 1/100s. Place the focus point on a specific area of the aircraft, such as the fuselage, and follow the movement of the aircraft with the shutter release button pressed halfway. Concentrate on the movement of the aircraft and make sure that the automatic focus is always on the desired area. Press the shutter-release button all the way down to take the picture. This technique is also known as “drag” and is often used in sports photography.

Lufthansa Airbus A320 at landing

The aircraft appears sharp in the image, while the foreground and background are blurred. The picture gives the viewer a feeling of how fast the plane must have been when landing.

Just as important as choosing a suitable exposure time is determining the aperture value. If you select an open aperture, your image will have limited depth of field and the aircraft will only be sharply focused over small areas. A small aperture gives more depth to the image and focuses the aircraft over larger areas. However, the camera then needs much more light or a longer exposure time. Exactly this is problematic with planespotting due to the high speeds.

Apps for tracking airplanes

Planning plays an important role in planespotting. This is especially true for those who want to photograph a particularly rare aircraft. “Plane Tracking” apps are particularly well suited to get an overview of air traffic. You can track the flights in your area, but also on several continents and obtain helpful details on aircraft type, flight duration or destination.

The app “Plane Finder” performs very well in the iOS App Store as well as in Android’s Google Play Store with average ratings and offers many useful features. On both platforms, the app is available in a free (“Lite”) version and a paid version with some additional features. The extended version has, among other things, an augmented reality mode in which airplanes in the sky are identified with the help of the camera. In addition, more information on individual flights can be viewed.

Besides the “Plane Finder” app there are also a lot of other apps that have similar functions and are worth testing.


Planespotting offers many impressive ways to display aircraft. With the help of telephoto lenses with high focal length values and various shooting techniques, even less experienced photographers can create exciting photos. Comprehensive planning is at least as important as the correct execution. The planning can be made a lot easier with the right Smartphone App which reveals many helpful details of the air traffic to planespotters, such as aircraft type, flight route or the destination of the flight.


A stream in the Alps - running water photographed soft - source: René Gropp

Photographing flowing water smooth

Water in motion such as rivers or waterfalls or beaches are popular motifs for impressive photos. In order to create particularly great water effects, every photographer has to decide whether to “freeze” every single drop of a torrential river or to highlight the flow of a waterfall. In the second case, the water appears soft like silk and the traces of the flow become visible. The water looks like a veil and radiates something mystical.

In this article, we will give you some tips on camera settings and helpful photo equipment to make your water shots appear particularly soft.

Technical camera settings

The exposure time is particularly important for water to appear soft. If the exposure time changes, moving objects of the subject become blurred and static elements remain sharp. The longer a subject is exposed, the softer it will look. The length of the shutter speed should also be adjusted to the flow rate. For a slowly flowing stream, an exposure time of at least 0.5 seconds is necessary, for a tearing waterfall 0.1 seconds. A few test shots with different settings will help here. In addition, the focal length has an influence on the result of the image. At short focal lengths the water needs more time to pass through the image from one edge to the other. Accordingly, a slower shutter speed can be selected for longer focal lengths.

Comparison of photographs of a stream - snapshot and long exposure - Source: René Gropp

Comparison of photographs of a stream – snapshot and long exposure – Source: René Gropp

In order to get the best possible colour and contrast, we recommend choosing a place or time of day that produces less bright and intense light. The Blue Hour, evenings, or rather cloudy days are best suited for photographing the movement of water. To further reduce the light falling on the sensor, use the lowest ISO value (between 50 and 100) on the camera.

The ISO value, exposure time, and focal length should always be set according to the subject and, most importantly, according to the speed at which the water flows and the lighting conditions. Sometimes you may need to try different adjustments to make water appear soft.

Photo equipment for photographing smooth water

SLR cameras are most suitable for photographing water in its flowing motion. In their basic configuration, they already offer the necessary prerequisites and adjustment possibilities so that rapid rivers and waves on the beach can be photographed as softly as possible. With a compact or digital camera, traces of water flow can also be recorded. When choosing a camera, you should make sure that it has a manual mode and that the exposure time, focal length, and ISO value can be changed manually. Some cameras already have an integrated selection of presets, such as the long exposure mode, which are suitable for taking pictures of running water. However, the best results can be achieved by manually adjusting the camera settings.

A weir is flooded by water - soft water makes the photo look picturesque - Source: René Gropp

A weir is flooded by water – soft water makes the photo look picturesque – Source: René Gropp

To avoid unwanted blurring or shaky images during long exposures, it is also a good idea to use a tripod. This way you get sharp images with great soft water effects even at long shutter speeds.

If you have found a special water subject, but very bright light falls on it, you often reach the limits with the manual settings on the camera to shoot sharp, high-contrast photos. A photographer usually enjoys good lighting conditions, but less light is more to get particularly soft water. Due to the long exposure times, contrasts in very intense light are low and the subject may hardly be visible. In such cases you should use a polarisation filter or a grey filter. These “swallow” additional light, prevent water reflections, and ensure sharp photos and soft water.

DSLR – Taking Photographs with Aperture Priority (A/Av Mode)

Aperture priority is a practical alternative to automatic or program mode, with which you can specifically control the depth of field. By automatically adjusting only one or two parameters of the manual aperture setting, this mode offers a lot of creative scope for the photographer.

Depending on the camera, the Aperture Priority or Aperture Value mode is marked A or Av on the mode dial, which stands for Aperture Priority or Aperture Value mode. As the symbols are similar, Av mode is sometimes confused with fully automatic mode. To avoid confusion, many cameras display a short help text explaining the program’s core function when it is selected. Automatic mode is labeled “AUTO” or displays as a green box labeled “A”. Furthermore, P stands for programmed auto, S (Tv) for shutter priority, and M for manual mode.

In Av mode, the photographer sets the aperture value and the camera automatically adjusts the exposure time and, depending on the camera, the ISO value accordingly. By specifying the aperture value, the photographer can control the depth of field without having to select or evaluate the appropriate shutter speed. Aperture priority is often used specifically in portrait photography or for subjects with an unsteady background, because when a low aperture value is set, the subject in the foreground is sharp while the background is slightly blurred.

Hilfstexte bei der Auswahl des Modus und der Blendenwerten

How do I set the Aperture Priority and what do I need to keep in mind?

To shoot in Av mode, first set the mode dial to A or Av. Once you have set the aperture priority, the display will show the current aperture value, which you can then open or close depending on the desired depth of field. The larger the f-number, the greater the depth of field. With a small aperture value you can blur the background and sharpen the foreground.

When the shutter release button is pressed halfway, the camera starts metering and displays the calculated shutter speed and the appropriate ISO value, if applicable.

To determine the ideal depth of field for your subject, try different aperture values. When checking shots, be aware that the preview on the display shows a smaller version of the captured photo, which may cause the sharpness and image quality in the preview to differ from the actual image. The actual result can usually only be judged on the computer or after the photos have been developed.

Vergleichsbild mit 2 verschiedenen Blendenwerten


What are possible errors and how can they be fixed?

Frequent errors associated with aperture priority are overexposure or underexposure due to an aperture that is too wide open or closed. When looking through the viewfinder of the camera, the image effect achieved by the settings is usually not visible. Unfortunately, the viewfinder does not allow you to estimate the depth of field or possible exposure errors that will occur later, and the subject usually appears brighter than it should be with the aperture value set. Some SLR cameras have a Depth Preview button that serves to control the depth of field at the set aperture value. By pressing the button while looking through the viewfinder, the camera fades down to the set value and makes it easier to control the depth of field and creatively design the image.

Since A/Av mode automatically calculates the exposure time, warnings are displayed when the required adjustment exceeds the technical capabilities of the camera. If the shutter speed starts blinking red next to the set aperture, change the aperture or if possible the ISO value, otherwise the photo may be overexposed or underexposed. If the aperture is too wide open, the fastest shutter speed blinks and warns of overexposure. If the longest shutter speed blinks, the aperture value is too low and the image is underexposed. If possible, you can compensate for this by increasing the ISO value or by opening the aperture further.

Also note that Aperture Priority refers only to the aperture value, shutter speed, and ISO depending on the camera type. Before shooting in A/Av mode, you should also check other settings such as exposure compensation and image quality and adjust them to the shooting conditions if necessary.


Aperture Priority is a creative mode in which the aperture is used as the main design element. By selectively influencing the depth of field of the photo, the photographer can achieve a specific image effect. For example, a portrait can be sharply highlighted against a restless background such as a busy street. The A/Av mode is also ideal for beautiful macro shots, for example of plants, insects or small objects with a blurred background. The automatic adjustment of the exposure time makes it possible to achieve the desired depth of field even under changing shooting conditions, while still leaving enough room for various adjustment options.

DSLR – Photography with program mode (P Mode)

SLR cameras have at least 5 basic modes, which can usually be controlled using a wheel on the top of the camera. With this shutter speed dial you can switch between different shooting modes. The five most important options for photography are AUTO, P, A (or Av), S (or Tv), and M. Automatic mode is marked with “AUTO” or a green box with an “A”. P stands for Program Mode, A (Av) for Aperture Priority, S (Tv) for Shutter Priority, M for Manual Mode. In addition, most cameras still have various scenery modes and possibly also a video mode.

Automatic program mode is not the same as automatic mode (fully automatic), since important shooting parameters can be varied depending on the camera model. Only the aperture and shutter speed are controlled by the camera and automatically adjusted by the camera’s metering mode. Typically, when ambient light becomes poorer, the aperture is opened further and the exposure time is increased at the same time.

In contrast to auto mode, P mode allows for manual control of the flash and other settings such as the ISO value or exposure corrections. In comparison to the aperture or shutter priority, the image is also properly exposed when the ambient conditions change quickly, making manual adjustment difficult.

Why take photos using program mode and not just auto mode?

For many DSLR users, P-Mode is the standard program for snapshots and works well for a variety of shooting situations. Even though it is very convenient to use, since both aperture and exposure time are automatically adjusted, the photographer does not lose complete control over the settings, as is the case in automatic mode. It is therefore a kind of “basic auto mode”.

Object photographed in Auto mode (auto flash) and P mode (without flash)

Object photographed in auto mode (automatic flash) and P mode (without flash)

Most importantly, in program mode, you can manually decide whether or not to use the flash. Especially indoors, flash photography often creates an artificial atmosphere – the decision when to use it should be made by the photographer depending on the situation. To use the flash, it must first be opened manually.

The ISO setting can be adjusted by the photographer depending on the lighting situation. You can try out at which ISO values the optimum exposure is achieved. Depending on the camera model, high ISO values in particular can lead to considerable image noise, which should be taken into account when adjusting the settings.

Comparison - photographed in P mode with different ISO settings (ISO 500 / 1000)

Comparison – photographed using P-Mode with different ISO settings (ISO 500 / 1000)

The white balance can also be adjusted as desired.

Furthermore, P mode offers the option of exposure correction. This can become necessary, as the exposure measurement is based on average subjects in which bright and dark areas are relatively evenly distributed. If the subject is generally very bright or very dark, it deviates too much from these average values and incorrect exposures occur. These can be corrected by means of an exposure correction.

In addition, automatic exposure series can be captured in program mode, as required for HDR images. Only the shutter speeds are changed and not the aperture, so that the photos can be merged and superimposed later.

Program P recognises the focal length used by interchangeable lenses and tries to keep the shutter speed so short using the aperture and (with ISO automatic) the ISO settings that handheld shots are possible without blurring up to minimum lighting.

The image quality should be checked directly when using P mode and the corresponding parameters should be adjusted if necessary.

Drawbacks of program mode

Program mode responds to two basic requirements: The image should be correctly exposed and it should be sharp. In combination, the aperture and shutter speed must always match.

However, there is more than one combination that leads to the correct exposure. If, for example, you open the aperture a little (assuming a correct combination) and reduce the exposure time accordingly, you get another correct combination regarding the exposure with a different depth of field. The depth of field of a photo is often used as a creative tool, for example. By default, program mode cannot be set accordingly.

Program shift functionality

P mode prefers short shutter speeds to high f-stops. The combination of aperture and shutter speed defines depth of field and motion blur. If the aperture is too small, for example, but the subject requires more blur in the background, program shift (or flexible program) can be used with many camera models. While preserving the exposure value, the time/aperture combination determined by the program mode is overwritten manually. Depending on the camera, the program can be shifted using a dial on the shutter release button or using the arrow keys on the back of the camera.

The aperture and shutter speed are not shifted individually, but simultaneously. This guarantees that the exposure itself remains unchanged in accordance with the current lighting situation. Program mode takes changed lighting conditions into account in its parallel shift, but the direction of the shift is retained. Depending on the camera and settings, this program shift is only valid for the current shot or for a defined time.

Fotos des selben Motivs mit unterschiedlicher Belichtungszeit

Photos of the same subject with different exposure time

Other modes / scene modes

The selection of the time/aperture combination always considers the interplay between the correct exposure time and the optimal aperture setting for depth of field. This is why most modern cameras offer more than one program to cover different situations. The settings follow a kind of “patent recipe” for the corresponding subject.

The portrait program selects an aperture that is as open as possible for a shallow depth of field. Landscape and panorama programs as well as close-up programs select an aperture that is as closed as possible for a large depth of field. The sports program uses the shortest exposure time to reduce motion blur. The night program uses a long shutter speed for long time exposures.


Depending on how much the photographer uses the manual settings of their DSLR in program mode, essential parameters of the photo can be influenced. It is always ensured that the combination of aperture and exposure time allows for a correct exposure. With program shift, almost the same settings can be made for individual images or exposure series as the semi-automatic modes Av (A) and Tv (S) would allow. If other scene modes are used or no custom settings are made in P mode, the mode comes close to AUTO mode.





DSLR – Shooting with Shutter Priority (S/Tv Mode)

Shutter priority is particularly effective for capturing moving objects sharp or deliberately blurred. The photographer sets the desired shutter speed manually and the camera automatically selects the appropriate aperture for the required exposure within the given technical possibilities.

This mode is mainly used in sports and nature photography, where several consecutive shots are taken and manual adjustment of the aperture to the exposure time would take too long.

In S/Tv mode, camera shake can be reduced and objects, people or animals in motion can be captured in focus while the background is blurred. If a long shutter speed is selected, the movement becomes blurred and the still environment remains sharp.

On the mode dial, the shutter priority is marked “S” or “Tv” depending on the camera, which stands for shutter priority or time value mode and means time priority. The counterpart to the S/Tv mode is the Av mode, which stands for aperture priority and is used for a creative use of depth of field. Further modes are the AUTO or A automatic mode, the P program automatic mode, and the M manual mode. Some cameras explain the core functions of the selected mode in a short help text to avoid confusion.

Hilfetext zur Blendenautomatik auf dem Kameradisplay und zur Verschlusszeit auf dem Kameradisplay

What should I keep in mind when selecting shutter priority mode?

To shoot with shutter priority, first set the mode dial to “S” or “Tv”. In this mode, the camera automatically adjusts the aperture value to the selected exposure time and lighting conditions. You can adjust other setting parameters that can affect the image quality yourself. For example, you can manually adjust the ISO value in difficult lighting conditions and still shoot using shutter priority.

If you want to freeze fast movements sharply as a snapshot, you should select an exposure time of at least 1/250 second. In a very bright environment, such as a bright beach or a winter landscape, even shutter speeds of 1/1000 second are suitable for focusing on particularly fast movements. Such conditions can be found on fast ski and snowboard runs or cracking serves in beach volleyball. But even for nature photos into the sky, such as birds in flight, very short shutter speeds are usually necessary.

Fliegende Möwe vor blauem Himmel

Many photographers also use S/Tv mode to creatively capture their subjects by selecting long exposure times and blurring motion. With an exposure time of 1/20 seconds, for example, you can make running water appear soft to foggy. The longer the exposure time, the blurrier the movement.

This effect is also known as the “motion blur effect” and is also suitable for shooting in cities or places of interest to blur passers-by. This not only provides a great image effect, but also protects the personality rights of the people in the photo. When taking pictures of busy roads at night, long exposure times ensure bright lines from the car headlights. Depending on the desired effect, the best way to find out the ideal shutter speed for your subject in shutter priority mode is to try it out.

Verschwommene Menschen auf einer Treppe

What are possible pitfalls and how can they be avoided?

When shooting in S/Tv mode, always pay attention to the camera display. If the camera cannot select the required aperture due to technical limitations of the lens, a warning will appear in the viewfinder. This warning varies depending on the type of camera and is described in the corresponding instruction manual. In most cases, the aperture value flashes when it cannot be adjusted to the required exposure.

The desired shutter speed may still be maintained if you increase or decrease the ISO value accordingly. Otherwise, if you change the shutter speed, you can approach the technically possible aperture range.

When setting slow shutter speeds in shutter priority mode, there is a risk of camera shake. For successful shots, we recommend using a tripod or activating the image stabiliser, if your camera has one. Alternatively, you can place the camera on a stable surface, such as a bench or wall, or rest your hands on it to keep the camera as still as possible.

Also note that S/Tv mode refers only to shutter speed, exposure time, and aperture value. To get impressive pictures, you should also adjust other parameters such as the ISO value or the image quality to the given conditions.


Shutter priority or time priority is ideal for capturing motion. The automatic adjustment of the required aperture to the selected exposure time allows the photographer to take several shots in a row to catch the perfect moment. With low shutter speeds, rapid movements can be frozen in razor-sharp detail, while long shutter speeds soften movements and create a motion blur effect. S/Tv mode makes it easier to take pictures of motion sharpness and blur, but allows the photographer to make additional adjustments to create impressive images.

ISO value on the display of a new SLR camera.

ISO Explained in Detail – the Light Sensitivity of Cameras

Everyone’s heard of it, yet its exact meaning is not as well known: ISO values. Besides the aperture and exposure time of a camera, the ISO value plays a very important role in both analogue and digital photography.

Even in the days of analogue photography, ISO values were of great importance. In this case, the ISO value stands for film speed and indicates how sensitive the film is to light, that is to say, the ISO value tells the photographer how much light they will need when photographing. Thus, in these times, the photographer had to have a good idea about what kind of lighting conditions were going to be present during the shoot, because changing out film in the middle of a shoot could be quite arduous.

Things have been made much easier with digital cameras. Here, the ISO setting indicator shows the photographer how light-sensitive the image sensor is. The ISO value can be changed in the settings menu and can always be changed instantly to adapt to changing lighting conditions. Also, many digicams offer the option of using an automatic ISO setting. When this setting is used, the camera automatically tries to use the most optimal ISO setting for each picture.

The abbreviation ISO stands for International Organization for Standardization and is an international standard-setting body made up of numerous national standards organizations. Before its founding, national abbreviations were used to describe film speed. A couple of examples of these were the DIN (Deutsches Institut für Normung / German Institute for Standardization) and the ASA (American Standards Association). Nowadays, only the ISO value is indicated.

Using the Right ISO Value

By default most cameras use an ISO value between 100 and 200. These values indicate a lower light sensitivity and are most suitable to use when there is a good amount of light available when photographing. Setting the ISO value becomes a bit more difficult when the lighting conditions are not that optimal. If you still want to use an ISO value of 100 in this case, you’ll have to either open the aperture more or increase the exposure time. If you increase the exposure time and don’t use a tripod, however, you can quickly end up with blurry photos.

In order to combat camera shake, you can also raise the ISO value on your camera to increase the light sensitivity of the image sensor. When doing this, you’re basically “tricking” the sensor into thinking the motif is brighter than it actually is. So, you’ll need less light to take a decent photo. When altering the ISO value setting, the shutter speed is also affected. When changing the ISO value from 100 to 200, the exposure time is halved. Thus, if the shutter speed beforehand was 1/125, it would now be 1/250.

Camera manufacturers give different recommendations for using various ISO settings in different kinds of lighting conditions. Basically, one can assume that the values between 100 and 200 are suitable for taking pictures in well-lit surroundings. In cloudier conditions, an ISO value between 400 and 800 is more suitable. When photographing at night or in very dark rooms, an ISO setting of 800+ should be used. These guidelines are especially helpful when you can’t use a flash when photographing, such as at a concert or in a poorly-lit museum.

A Drawback of Using a Higher ISO Value – Image Noise

You might think that using a higher ISO value is the solution for all of your lighting problems. However, there’s a catch. The higher the ISO value is, the greater the likelihood that image noise will appear in your photos. Especially inexpensive camera models will begin producing unusable results when the ISO value is set at 400 or higher.

The reason for this so-called image noise appearing is the interference experienced by the image sensor. When raising the ISO value, the sensitivity of the image sensor also rises. This also increases the possibility of interference. The higher the ISO value is, the more visible this image noise will appear in your photo in the form of colour and brightness discrepancies. These white or colour faulty pixels are primarily visible in darker sections of your photo.

If some image noise is visible in your photo, this can be partially fixed retrospectively with special programs. Paid software like Photo Ninja or Neat Image allow you to edit your data in RAW format. In order to do this, of course, your camera has to be capable of producing images saved in RAW format. One must keep in mind, however, that the image noise that appears in your photo can never be completely eliminated.

Go Easy on the ISO

As we’ve already described, high ISO values can lead to unwanted image noise in your photos. The lower the selected ISO setting is, the clearer your photos will appear. When using an ISO value of 50, the image noise isn’t visible. For this reason you should be careful when you decide to adjust the ISO value on your camera.

You can also regulate the amount of light the image sensor receives by adjusting the aperture and exposure time. You can also adjust these values and use a tripod. If you don’t have a tripod available, you can use a wall or solid structure to stabilise yourself when photographing. This can help prevent unwanted camera shake.

A camera tripod and good lighting conditions make using high ISO values unnecessary